Scrunching with Oil: How to Define Your Curls
Scrunching is the go-to technique for anyone with curly or wavy hair. With the right oil, you give your curls definition, shine, and bounce, without stickiness. Here is how the technique works and how to pick the right oil.
What Is Scrunching?
Scrunching is a technique where you squeeze sections of hair from the ends up toward the roots, as if you are pressing an accordion together. This motion encourages your natural curl pattern and distributes product evenly through the hair.
Adding oil gives your hair a light coating that:
- Enhances curl definition
- Reduces frizz
- Adds shine
- Protects against moisture loss
Note: Scrunching is part of the Curly Girl Method (CGM), a hair care philosophy built around embracing and strengthening your natural curl pattern. The method was popularized by Lorraine Massey.
The Technique: Step by Step
1. Wash and condition
Wash your hair with a sulfate-free shampoo and use a moisturizing conditioner. If your hair is on the dry side, do not fully rinse out the conditioner.
2. Squeeze out (don’t wring)
Squeeze excess water from your hair with a cotton T-shirt or microfiber towel. Never use a terry cloth towel, the rough texture creates frizz.
3. Spread the oil
Drop 2-4 drops of oil into your palms and rub them together. Distribute evenly.
4. Scrunch
Take a section of hair, place the ends in your palm, and squeeze upward toward your scalp. Hold for 3-5 seconds and release. Repeat for each section of your hair.
5. Air dry or diffuse
Let your hair air dry for the most natural result. Use a diffuser on low heat if you are short on time. Do not touch your hair while it dries.
Tip: The golden rule: “scrunch out the crunch.” Once your hair is fully dry and has a stiff gel cast, scrunch one more time with a few drops of oil to break the stiffness and reveal soft, shiny curls.
Which Oil for Scrunching?
Not every oil works. You want a lightweight oil that does not weigh hair down:
| Oil | Texture | Porosity | Result |
|---|---|---|---|
| Kukui oil | Very light, dry | Low-medium | Definition + shine, no weight |
| Argan oil | Light | Medium-high | Shine + anti-frizz |
| Jojoba oil | Very light | Low-medium | Subtle, good base |
| Grapeseed oil | Very light | Low | Subtle, budget-friendly |
Avoid heavy oils like coconut oil and castor oil for scrunching. They make curls limp and sticky.
Kukui Oil: the Scrunching Favorite
Kukui oil is popular in the curly hair community for three reasons:
- Extremely light texture that does not weigh curls down
- Dries quickly without a greasy feeling
- Omega-3 fatty acids nourish the hair from within
More about kukui oil for hair and curls
Scrunching by Curl Type
Wavy hair (type 2)
Use minimal oil (1-2 drops). Wavy hair weighs down faster than tighter curls. Kukui oil or grapeseed oil are the lightest options.
Curly hair (type 3)
The sweet spot for scrunching with oil. 2-3 drops of kukui or argan oil gives great definition. Experiment with the amount.
Coily hair (type 4)
Coily hair can handle more oil. 3-5 drops of argan oil or a blend of kukui and argan works well. Focus on the ends and mid-lengths.
Find out which oil suits your curl type best
Common Mistakes
- Too much oil, always start with less than you think you need
- Choosing a heavy oil, coconut oil and castor oil are too heavy for scrunching
- Scrunching with dry hands, always spread oil in your palms first
- Touching your hair while it dries, this causes frizz
- Using a terry cloth towel, switch to a T-shirt or microfiber towel
Want to compare all oils for curly hair? See our top 5
The information on this page is intended for general guidance and does not replace professional hair care advice.
Frequently asked questions
What exactly is scrunching?
Scrunching is a technique where you squeeze sections of hair from the ends up toward the roots, like an accordion. This encourages your natural curl pattern and distributes product evenly. Adding oil gives extra definition and shine.
Which oil is best for scrunching?
Kukui oil is the top choice thanks to its dry, lightweight texture. It gives shine and definition without making hair heavy or sticky. Argan oil also works well but is slightly heavier.
Should I scrunch on wet or dry hair?
You get the best results by scrunching on wet hair (after washing, squeezed out with a T-shirt or microfiber towel). You can also scrunch on dry hair to refresh curls.
How much oil do I use for scrunching?
Start with 2-3 drops for shoulder-length hair. Spread the oil in your palms, then scrunch your hair from ends to roots. Too much oil makes hair greasy, so start small and add more if needed.