Comedogenic Rating Explained + List of Non-Comedogenic Oils
You see it on product packaging and in beauty articles: non-comedogenic. But what does it mean exactly, and why does it matter which oil you put on your skin? If you have acne-prone, oily, or pore-sensitive skin, this is one of the most practical concepts to understand for your skin care routine.
The Comedogenic Scale from 0 to 5
Note: The comedogenic scale runs from 0 to 5. A rating of 0 means an ingredient does not clog your pores. A rating of 5 is the most comedogenic. Ratings of 0-2 are generally considered safe for most skin types. Ratings of 3-5 deserve extra attention for acne-prone or oily skin. The scale is based on research from the 1980s and has limitations, more on that below.
A comedo is a clogged pore, the term covers both blackheads (open comedones) and whiteheads (closed comedones). A comedogenic ingredient is a substance that can clog pores by building up in the follicle, blocking the free flow of sebum.
Whether an ingredient is comedogenic depends on its molecule size, fatty acid composition, and how it interacts with the skin’s sebum production. Not every ingredient with a high rating causes problems for everyone, skin is personal.
Comedogenic Ratings of Popular Oils
Below is an overview of widely used skin care oils, their comedogenic rating, and which skin type they suit.
| Oil | Rating | Skin type advice |
|---|---|---|
| Wheat germ oil | 5 | Avoid for acne-prone and oily skin |
| Coconut oil | 4 | Dry, normal - avoid for acne-prone skin |
| Jojoba oil | 2 | All skin types, including acne-prone |
| Kukui oil | 2 | All skin types, including sensitive and oily |
| Rosehip oil | 1 | All skin types, including acne-prone |
| Argan oil | 0 | All skin types, including oily and acne-prone |
| Sunflower oil | 0 | All skin types |
| Squalane | 0 | All skin types, including extremely sensitive |
Is a Low Rating a Guarantee for Clear Skin?
No, and that is an important nuance. The comedogenic scale is useful as a guideline but has limitations. The original studies were partly conducted on rabbit ears, an environment that does not translate directly to human skin. The effect of an ingredient also depends on its concentration, the formulation of the product, and your individual skin.
Two people with similar skin can react very differently to the same oil. Hormonal changes, bacteria, stress, and diet all play a role in acne. An oil with a rating of 2 can work perfectly for one person and cause small breakouts for another.
Tip: Always introduce new oils gradually. Apply a new oil for one week only on a small part of your face, for example just one cheek, before using it on your whole face. That way you can see quickly whether your skin responds well without risking a major breakout.
Use the comedogenic scale as a starting point when choosing products, but ultimately let your skin’s reaction be your guide.
Comedogenic Ratings and Acne: What Is the Connection?
Clogged pores are one of the first steps in acne development. When a pore gets blocked by sebum, dead skin cells, or comedogenic ingredients, that can lead to the growth of the bacterium Cutibacterium acnes, previously known as Propionibacterium acnes. That bacterial growth causes the inflammation we know as a pimple.
Non-comedogenic oils reduce this risk by not clogging pores. They can even contribute to a healthier skin barrier, which may reduce acne in the long run.
Do you have sensitive or chronically irritated skin and wonder if oils are right for you? Also read our guide on kukui oil for acne, where we go deeper into oils for reactive skin.
Is Kukui Oil Comedogenic?
Kukui oil has a comedogenic rating of 2. That puts it in the middle of the scale, but in practice kukui oil is well tolerated by most skin types, including oilier and acne-prone skin.
That has to do with the unique composition of the oil. Kukui oil is rich in linoleic acid, a polyunsaturated fatty acid naturally found in the skin barrier. People with acne-prone skin have measurably lower linoleic acid levels in their sebum, replenishing it through the skin can help restore barrier function.
Kukui oil also has a light texture and absorbs quickly without leaving a greasy residue. That makes it one of the most versatile oils for face use. More about its specific effects on the face in our guide on kukui oil for skin.
Note: Squalane, derived from olives or sugar cane, has a comedogenic rating of 0, making it one of the safest oils for acne-prone skin. It is also the most similar oil to the squalene your own skin produces. The downside: squalane has a less rich fatty acid composition than oils like kukui or rosehip.
When in doubt about which oil best suits your skin, always look at the full ingredient list of a product, not just the comedogenic rating. The combination of ingredients in a product can influence the result, both positively and negatively.
Take the skin type quiz to find out which oil is safe for your skin.
Read More
Frequently asked questions
Can I use non-comedogenic oil on acne-prone skin?
Yes, non-comedogenic oils are generally safe for acne-prone skin. They do not clog pores and can even help strengthen the skin barrier. But acne has multiple causes, hormonal and bacterial factors also play a role. A low comedogenic rating is not a guarantee you will not break out. Always do a patch test and introduce new products one at a time.
Does coconut oil always clog pores?
Not always, but coconut oil has a comedogenic rating of 4 out of 5, meaning the chance of clogging is high. For people with dry, non-acne-prone skin it can work fine. For oily or acne-prone skin it is a risky choice. Better to avoid it on your face if you are prone to breakouts or blackheads.
What does a rating of 0 mean?
A rating of 0 means the oil or ingredient is non-comedogenic, it does not clog your pores. Oils like argan oil and squalane score 0 and are safe for virtually all skin types, including oily and acne-prone. A 0 rating says nothing about other properties, even non-comedogenic oils can be irritating if you are allergic to them.